One thing that is very typical for temples in Bangkok (and also other parts of Thailand) is that they are decorated with multi-colored glass mosaic. This is an art-style that started in the 19th century, so a temple that has these kinds of decorations is either built during or after the 19th century. Sometimes an older temple gets renovated and they put these glass mosaics up too. Nowadays, these glass mosaics are still being used.
These are symbols of the countries richness in gemstones of all kinds of colors. It is also possible that the mirrors are used as a way to deflect evil spirits, as is common in Chinese feng shui. Thai artists assimilated many elements of Chinese culture and beliefs, and this could be one of the results of such an assimilation, however, it can’t be said for sure.
Whatever the underlying meaning – it can make for spectacularly beautiful light effects in temples in Bangkok during different times of the day, and is in a way a good representation of the love that Thai people have for intensity and variety, which is also reflected in food, where they often mix opposing flavors together to balance each other out, and other areas of life. This is a very different concept from the Japanese sense of refined subtlety, which many foreigners can easily appreciate.
One reaction that I often get when I bring friends to temples in Bangkok is that they feel the temples are quiet “carnivalistic” (if that’s a word). Some people can relate to it, some people do not like it. Whatever it is to you, try to avoid any preconceived notions and concepts of what things should be like, and approach these temples with an open mind – that way, you’ll discover the joy and beauty that can be found within these temple walls.
This particular picture is taken from the Grand Palace (Wat Prakaew) in Bangkok.
This is a picture of one of the chedis (stupas) at Wat Phra Kaew (the Temple of The Emerald Buddha). You can see that this chedi has 20 corners (five on each side, times four), which is typical of Rattanakosin style chedis.
This chedi is covered with gold lacquer and it is quiet impressive standing next to it when the rays of the sunshine make it shine brightly.
Also, look at the skillful and detailed craftmanship that went into the mosaic covering the statue.
Lots of Thai people love to play the lottery. And quiet a few try to improve their chances with some supernatural help. When you buy lottery tickets on Chinese New Year at the Wat Trai Mit temple where the golden Buddha is located… well, THAT’s obviously gonna help you win the lottery, no?
Yesterday I posted a picture of a small girl getting blessed by a monk. Right after that, she made a donation. Thais almost always make a donation when visiting a temple, it’s a way of making merit. And they instill this behavior in a very early age already in their kids – but in a playful and fun way.
Girl makes a donation for a Thai Temple
This picture was taken at Wat Traimit during the Chinese New Years celebration 2010 (starting the year of the tiger).
Sprinkling lustral water is a way of giving blessings. Sometimes it is also called blessed water or hole water, and Thai people refer to it as “nam mon”. The monks bless water in a ceremony – they chant and drip a bit of candlewax into the water.
This has a symbolical meaning, it represents the four elements: earth, water, wind and fire. Water is the water itself, earth is the candle wax, fire is the flame of the candle, and wind is the blow of air that extinguishes the flame of the candle.
Thai people believe that a monk sprinkling this water on your head can bring you good luck, success and protect you from harm. The head is also the most blessed part of your body, that is why you can see people lowering their heads.
Buddhist monk sprinkling holy water
Buddhist Monk sprinkling holy water
These pictures where taken at the Chinese New Years celebration 2010 at the Wat Traimit Temple in Bangkok, where the golden Buddha is located.
Smiling monk sprinkles lustral water on young Thai girl
This one was taken on the Chinese New Years celebration at Wat Traimit in Chinatown, Bangkok. There were so many people. One of the nice things about Thailand is that even in the midst of large crowds, there’s still a relaxed and laid-back vibe to it. You have time and space to breath.
Maybe it has something to do with marayat (marayaat), which is a word that could be translated as “being well-behaved” or “having good manners” or simply “etiquette”. Most people are aware that the Japanese have very complex and detailed rules when it comes to social interaction, reigi saho. What most people are not so aware of, is that Thailand also has a highly defined and complex set of rules too. However, while the Japanese adhere to that code of conduct almost compulsively, Thai people in general are much more flexible, and for outsiders, it is often not easy to discover the subtle rules that influence social interactions in Thailand.
It might also be one of the reasons why so many Japanese businesses can be found in Thailand, and there are whole communities of Japanese businessmen. Because the highly defined rules of social interactions are something that the Japanese are used to, while the lack of these rules can be confusing for people accustomed to them.
But then, I’m starting to ramble here… let’s look at the picture.
Sometimes it’s the mundane things that catch your eyes.
There are so many temples in Thailand that are located atop a mountain hill, and the only way that leads up there is through a long range of hundreds of stairs, which actually makes it physically challenging to pay a visit to the temple.
But then of course, it makes it a very special experience. However, if it’s easy and convenient to go there, there’s nothing special about it. If climbing the Mount Everest would be as easy as, lets say, visiting Disneyland, it wouldn’t be nearly as great an experience for those who do it.
So when I saw the elevator, I thought: not so cool.
The Temple Elevator
But of course, for some people in that temple and maybe some elderly monks or layperson with knee problems, an elevator must come as a true blessing.
It’s just another example of the wild fusion of ancient and modern lifestyles in Bangkok. When I first came to it, it seemed like such a contrast to me, the old and the new, tradition and development. But contrast really isn’t the right word in the case of Thailand. It’s fusion. They just mix it together, almost like putting it in a blender, and it creates something that is unique, modern, fascinating, and at the same time traditional.
By the way – if you’re wondering where this is… it’s also in Wat Samphanthawongsaram Worawiharn in Chinatown. (That temple is not nearly as popular as Wat Traimit for example, because it’s kind of in a “hidden soi”, and lacks a major sensation like the Golden Buddha that the Traimit temple has).
Another odd discovery at Wat Samphanthawongsaram Worawiharn: a hidden Buddhist graffiti. The buddha is sketched on the ballustrade of a temple.
Next time I visit the temple, I’ll try to find that part again – maybe the sketch has by now been turned into a mural.
Buddhist graffiti sketch?
Also, I wonder – if this is an “illegal” graffiti – would the monks actually wipe it out? After all, it still displays the Buddha. But then, as far as I can recall, it’s quiet uncommon to see depictions of the Buddha that are nearly the ground, basically under the waistline of a person standing nearly, like in this case. And oftentimes, Thai people make a great effort of not being higher than a Buddha image – e.g. by lowering themselves.
Maybe I just got too much time on my hand to wonder about this kind of stuff, haha…
Small window-doors at Wat Traimit in Bangkok’s Chinatown – this is the temple where the golden Buddha is located. Apart from the two figures, who I suppose are guards (watch the truncheons they’re holding), also notice the flowery background which is done in typical fractal-style for Thai arts.
